Subject: 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT A/C Leaks
Question:

THANK YOU, DIDN,T KNOW WHERE TO RIGHT THE FOLLOW UP: THE CAR HAS ALREADY BEEN CHECKED WITH DYE AND THE CONDENSOR WAS ALSO REPLACED. THE LEAK IS RIGHT ON THE SUCTION HOSE (ALUMINUM END WITH O-RING) WHICH ATTACHES TO THE ALUMINUM BLOCK AT THE FIREWALL WHICH IS BRAZES TO THE TWO EVAPORATOR LINES. I NOTICED WHEN I TRY TO MATE THE TWO ALUMINUM PIECES TOGETHER (SUCTION HOSE ALUMINUM END AND THE EVAPORATOR ALUMINUM END) WITHOUT ANY O-RINGS OR BOLTS, THEY ARE NOT FLUSH. THERE IS CONTACT ON THE TOP END AND ABOUT A .010 GAP ON THE BOTTOM. MY THEORY IS THAT THE LINES WERE INSTALLED AND TIGHTENED AT MITSUBISHI PRIOR TO TIGHTENING THE EVAPORATOR AND THE SUCTION LINE AT THE COMPRESSOR. IN OTHER WORDS, I THINK WHEN THE SUCTION LINE WAS REMOVED A PRELOAD CONDITION EXISTED ON THE TWO MATING PARTS. WE USED FACTORY MITSUBISHI O-RINGS, BUT WITH ONLY ONE TOP BOLT TO DRAW IN THE TWO MATING PARTS, A GAPPED CONDITION EXISTS CAUSING SEEPAGE. CAN YOU LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK? MY PLAN IS TO LOOSEN THE EVAPORATOR AND SUCTION HOSE FROM COMPRESSOR, AND MATE THE TWO PARTS FIRST, THUS REMOVING ANY PRELOAD WHICH MAY CAUSE THE O-RING TO NOT SET CORRECTLY. PLEASE LMK WHAT YOU THINK, THANKS....GUS

Answer: Gus,
Your idea of loosening the evaporator and suction hose from the compressor may help. Though it would be a good idea to replace any o-rings on any aluminum lines that you loosen up. It's not 100% necessary, but it's good practice. If there were a load on any one part, or even if the lines were overtightened, they can bend slightly; preventing them from seating flush to one another. Because of the extreme pressure those lines are under (several hundred psi in some areas), even the slightest gap or misalignment can cause a leak. Hopefully, you'll be able to connect those lines together properly, and torque all bolts to spec.
Good luck!